In the early evening hours, a traveler new to Amsterdam's red light district might be surprised to find that a large portion of the foot traffic are fellow tourist lookie-loos. There is no doubt that there is something fascinating to our Puritanically rooted beliefs to see the sex trade displayed with such openness. So the tourists mingle among the patrons, gawking at women displaying their scantily clad wares in red lit windows. Some look in lust, many in amazement, yet only the tourists seem to feel uncomfortable with the situation.
Adventure travel? I'm not sure, but I know Amsterdam's fascinating culture does appeal to the most adventurous travelers. While the more easily offended traveler should probably stick to the more conservative parts of town (as few as they are in Amsterdam), the bulk of us find a lure in the mental dicotomy of the situation the red light district has to offer. Clearly prostitution, nude clubs and adult toy stores in our culture has been tied to the seediest and often most dangerous parts of town. Our cultural philosophy is that these things are to be done in secret, too inappropriate to ever do openly. Yet at the same time, one can't help admire the clean, controlled and open environment in which these Dutch businesses operate.
Of course with any sort of observation, one can see immediately that there are a lot of things different about Amsterdam. While pick-pockets and grab-and-dash thieves are frequent, violence is not. With a little caution, like keeping track of bags and using a money belt, the most likely threats are from fellow visitors to Amsterdam, and not the locals. This is why it is not unusual to see, on any late evening, an 80 year old woman walking alone down a dark, narrow alley. She knows, as long as the doesn't carry her bag loosely, she isn't going to get hit over the head for it.
That is one significant reasons one can feel pretty safe in the red light districts. Sure you'll see some rowdy drunken tourists, but you'll also see policemen standing on many corners. It's very strange to the US visitor--surrounded by prostitutes openly advertising in windows, walking by "coffee" houses clearly displaying marijuana plants and leaking its pungent odor, all under the watchful eye of the law. But that's the secret of it's seeming success--there are clearly defined rules and understandings.
It is not that anything goes in Amsterdam, far from it. In fact, it's even a misnomer that marijuana is legal. It isn't, it's tolerated. The Dutch are resigned to the fact that human nature will always result in the practice of certain activities. Rather than being embarrased by this, they have decided to allow it under tightly controlled circumstances. It is arguable whether this is positive on society as a whole, but it is hard to argue that in Holland these normally illegal activities seem to be carried out in far safer and healthier environments than in most other countries. Pot can only be smoked in the "coffee" houses, special menus must be requested from behind the counter, and age restrictions apply. If these rules are followed, the practice of pot smoking is tolerated.
In the same vein, rules have been applied to prostitution. Prostitutes who wish to practice openly in the city must follow these rules. For example, they must have regular health check ups and STD tests. They must display their "wares" behind a window or glass door and may not actively solicit customers; customers must approach them. The act is practiced in a clean room, usually with a shower and a safety panic button. (In the event of a problem, the prostitute can hit the button, quickly calling for help.) While these can't prevent all problems, this along with the open acceptance of human sexuality, results in a pretty safe neighborhood. Typically charging 50 to 100 Dutch Guilders (about $25-$50) these women see the work as a fun, easy way to make a good supplemental income.
So each evening, as young women from small country towns head into Amsterdam, and other city girls leave work to prepare for their second jobs, consider visiting the spectacle of the red light district. By walking through some of the narrow streets just south of the main train station, you'll see the colored lights begin to appear in windows. Seemingly traditional neighborhoods become an adult wonderland. Right or wrong, it's definitely a fascinating insight to another culture that is so similar, yet so different. Go early and join the other tourists that have come to see the sights. And before you feel too morally superior, know that a Dutch adult store operator once told me that he always greets customers in English, "Because it's the international language of sex."
